Granada in Retrospect

It’s about 4am on a crisp January morning. Plaza San Nicolás is unusually empty except for my friend Kerstin, myself and our Spanish friends from "our" Bar Niza. We decided to come here after a bitter-sweet "farewell party" for Kerstin who is going back to Germany in a matter of hours. An illuminated alhambra provides us with a little light as we reminisce about our time as students in Granada.

I fell in love with Granada when I was there as an Erasmus student back in 2001-2002. It was the desire to improve my Spanish that prompted me to study in Spain. But the reason for choosing the University of Granada (UGR) was quite simply because it was the most appealing university; not too big, not too small, and located amidst beautiful surroundings.

Although UGR is not found at the top of the list of prestigious universities in Europe, it is number one in another respect: UGR receives the most Erasmus students per year in all of Europe. When I first set foot there I was surprised to see just how many foreigners, like myself, had been drawn to UGR: approximately 2,000 European students choose to study in Granada through the Erasmus program each year. To some, this may raise questions as to what persuades people to apply to UGR.

For me, part of the answer lies in the city itself - its location and its diversity. The city has a rich cultural heritage with influences ranging from the Romans to the Moors, Jews and Christians. You cannot help but be affected by the cultural legacy that is Granada; you feel it in the sweet aromas from the Arab tea houses, the sound of flamenco guitars played by street musicians and the majestic presence of the cathedrals.

After a short siesta and study break I venture out into the busy streets of Granada. It is Thursday afternoon, which means time for language classes. I walk across Plaza Einstein and make my way towards "el Centro de Lenguas Modernas" with a pit stop at Bar Niza, which is strategically located between our flat and the city centre. I tell Paco, the owner, that my friends Mette and I will come by later to arrange Kerstin's farewell party.

It was Kerstin who first discovered Bar Niza, a hidden jewel of a tapas bar mostly visited by local Granadinos and practically our second home. To me, unknown places like Bar Niza are what give Granada its charm. By getting to know the locals there, we felt less like tourists and more as if we were really part of life in Granada. I'm fortunate to have friends in Granada whom I still visit to this day. It now feels as if every time I go back, it's like coming home again.

When I wasn't at university, the language centre or in Bar Niza, I'd spend time with my flatmates who were from countries like Germany, Morocco, The States and Spain. Sometimes we'd venture out into the nightlife of Granada. Back then the place to go out was called "Calle Elvira", a street that offers a wide selection of bars and discotheques.

Morning in Granada

Alhambra

Plaza San Nicolás

Granada at night

My academic experience in Granada was probably the least exciting part and played a small role in my overall Erasmus experience. The subjects I chose and the instructors' teaching style did not inspire me. The bulk of my education took place outside the classroom, conversing with friends. However, most of the other students I knew were quite satisfied with their classes.

I am in Bar Niza at the farewell party. I take a look at our university friends mingling in the bar with Paco, Kike and the other locals. I am grateful for all the friendships and memories, but will be sad to see a good friend leave in the morning, and to know that my stay will also soon be ending.

My time in Granada turned out to be valuable in many respects. Not only did I experience southern Spanish culture, but I also formed a bond with other young Europeans; something that my life in Denmark had not yet offered me. Looking back, my "Granada experience" was the launching pad of many long-term friendships and turned out to play a big role in the formation of my "European identity". I came to realise that young Europeans share many of the same values; that despite different cultures, customs and languages, we are more alike than we think.

Today one of my best friends is from Germany, I am married to a Canadian, and I currently live in Poland. My days in the Erasmus programme helped shape who I am today, or at least add a couple of extra layers to the person who today calls herself a Dane, Scandinavian, European and World Citizen.

Situated in a city with so much charm and so many international students, UGR offers an education that cannot be found in books. UGR and Granada will always have a special place with me.

Every time I go back, it's like coming home again.

Teaser Photo: cfcastro / www.flickr.com